36. Suggest a composition for preparing lipstick and describe the main technological operations. Define parameters for assessing quality.
Raw materials and supplies used to make lipstick
1) Solid base:
*Fat. It gives the lipstick the necessary firmness.
* Oils. The oil effectively softens and nourishes lips.
* Wax. This element retains the shape of the lipstick, gives it density and plasticity.
2) Dyes in modern lipsticks are combined: soluble and insoluble
* Soluble dyes include those that dissolve in oil and fat. For example, eosin. Fat-soluble dyes are not recommended for use in pure form due to their ability to be fixed in superficial tissues. They have increasedphotosensitivity; in light-colored lipsticks without pigment coating, theyquickly fade (within 1 hour) under the influence of sunlight.
* Insoluble dyes are divided, in turn, into two groups: coloring varnishesand coloring pigments (titanium dioxide, synthetic iron oxides, pearlescentpigments, mica)
3) Additives
* Additives are perhaps the most pleasant component of lipstick for women. The main purpose of the additives is to give the lipstick a therapeutic effect, protect the skin of the lips from the adverse effects of natural factors, as well as soften and moisturize the lips. Supplementsinclude vitamins, plant extracts (for example, aloe), moisturizing oils, hyaluronic acid, panthenol
4) Antioxidant
5) Flavors:* Fragrances are what our lipstick smells like. The most commonly usedflavoring agents are jasmine, bergamot, and lavender.
Technology:
First of all, prepare the fat base. All components are weighed and meltedat a certain temperature, which depends on the presence of solidcomponents, in special boilers.
The coloring paste is prepared separately. For it, pigments and dyes are crushed to 10-15 microns. This is required to ensure that the resultinglipstick has a uniform texture. The degree of grinding is checked using a special grindometer.
Then the base and coloring paste are combined and mixed for about 60 minutes with various mixers at a speed of 500-700 rpm. A period of gradual cooling begins. At a temperature of 65-70°, antioxidants, activeadditives and fragrances are added. Then the mass is mixed again and enters the homogenizer. This device is used to ensure that the lipstickacquires a plastic structure. The mixture is stirred. And after that it is subjected to vacuum treatment so that there is no accumulation of air in the lipstick mass. The mass is ready, it is poured into containers and crystallizes within 48 hours.
Then the molding begins.
Quality control: It should not tighten the lips and cause a feeling of heaviness
* Lipstick should be applied softly and easily to the lips and lie flat
* Should leave a pleasant soft feeling on the lips
*Must have a pleasant smell
* Pay attention to the appearance of the lipstick - its surface should be smooth, without droplets or smudges
*The lipstick stick must be strong
* When exposed to the sun, good lipstick should not melt like ice cream. When choosing a lipstick, remember that it should be sufficientlypigmented, that is, not transparent. The lipstick should not smear or be toogreasy, but it should not be too dry so as to dry out your lips.
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